En Suramérica: The trail to Machu Picchu

Hello all,

I've been quite behind on updating this blog, and I apologize for that, but we've just crossed into Argentina through Bolivia which probably has the worst opportunities for internet access in the Americas. If there is access, it costs an arm and a leg. And it's nearly impossible to connect. However, now I am in Argentina, a seemingly more "civilized" country with a much easier opportunity to get my "internet fix." However, I must say it's been quite nice to travel without having internet.

After leaving Huaraz we headed to Lima to stay a night in order to break up the travel time to Cusco. Regardless it was a 20 or so hour bus ride from Lima to Cusco, but we wanted to stop by Lima (also known as the culinary capital of South America) to try some sea food and a Pisco Sour (or two). Pisco is a strong liquor made from grapes that was first produced when the Spanish arrived in Peru. The seafood of Lima is known for being some of the most exquisite in all of the world as it comes in fresh from the Pacific daily. We tried sushi while there which was excellent- some of the best I've ever tasted in fact.

Unfortunately during this time of the year Lima presents moderately nasty weather. During the day and a half we spent in the city we were covered by gloomy, grey clouds, and there was a humidity that sometimes turned to rainy mist in the air. The atmosphere seemed uninviting, but we were able to spend a night out with some friends of Adi's older brothers and had a good time getting to know the nightlife of the city. We left Thursday for Cusco on an insanely comfortable 20-hour bus ride where they served meals and played some entertaining Hollywood flicks dubbed in Spanish. There's nothing like listening to the Spanish voices the producers choose for characters like John Travolta and Steve Martin.

Friday, July 15 - Thursday, July 21 was a week spent in Cusco and some surrounding cities to make the Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu. We decided to do this trek because it was one of our only options for a multi-day excursion to the ruins. The Inca Trail, which is the most popular form of reaching Machu Picchu is unfortunately booked through sometime in November. Machu Picchu is becoming quite the popular sight, and is apparently the most visited attraction in all of South America. The national park allows up to 2,500 people in daily and there is even a sight where you can get your passport stamped for visiting. Yes, it is extremely touristy, but the ruins themselves are so impressive that it's worth the time and tourist overload to see them. Plus, the people-watching is terrific.

Unfortunately on the 15th the government of Peru introduced a new system of controlling the number of tourists let in on the daily. We were required not only to purchase a moderately expensive ticket to see the ruins, but in order to climb Huayna Picchu (the distinctly-shaped mountain in the background of most Machu Picchu pictures) we had to pay an extra fee and were added to the list of 200 people let in either at 7 AM or 10 AM.

Needless to say the experience was incredible despite the menacing fees and waiting lines. The Salkantay trek is a 5-day/4-night hike from Ollantayambo to Aguas Calientes where we go from snow-capped mountains to the jungle-like forests at the base of Machu Picchu in just a matter of days. We lucked out yet again with our group for the tour. Every member was great. We had representation again from all over the world: Germany, Holland, Switzerland, California, Missouri, and even Georgia!

Four days of hiking and camping in rather well-put-together campsites led us to Aguas Calientes which is the base town for Machu Picchu. The fourth night was spent in a hostel run by a woman who was rather unhappy with her job and did not hesitate whatsoever to take her misery out on us. The fifth day we rose around 4 AM to begin the walk up the brutally steep and long staircase that brought us to the gates of the ruins. At 6 AM they opened and we flooded in like an anxious herd of cattle. Of course, there was nothing to be seen yet- the clouds had not parted, but our guide reassured us that it took time before we would be able to see the city. Sure enough about a half an hour after waiting in the foggy mist, Machu Picchu began to expose itself. It was an incredible sight.

Javier (our Salkantay guide) passed us off to a friend of his to give us the tour of the ruins. The man was short, bald, and barely spoke English, but by the standards in Peru it seems as though if you are able to say "hello" and "my name is" in even the most broken English, you qualify for a tour guide. That being the case, our guide was perfect for the job. Half of his explanations were a mixture of Spanglish and some other language no one was able to understand. The guide had numerous phrases such as "clear the idea?", "yes or no?", and "follow me boy and girl" (yes, "boy and girl"- singular) that he repeated after every explanation. We attempted to count the number of times but lost track. It was a great experience because we were able to learn a lot about his interesting take on the ruins, and were also happily entertained throughout the morning.

Machu Picchu is really an incredible sight. It was hard for me to imagine the entire time during the tour that an indigenous civilization constructed the entirety without machinery or modern equipment of any type. There are countless theories as to what the city represented to the people, how it was constructed, and what took place there, but no one will ever know the real reasons or answers.

Learning about the Inca civilization has been one of my favorite parts about traveling through Ecuador, Peru, and Bolivia. There is an incredible amount to learn about the people, their practices, and their history and Machu Picchu was an awesome representation that only enhanced my interest in the culture.

Thanks for reading and please enjoy some pictures from the trek below!

Cheers,
Travis

A gloomy day in Lima, Peru